10 Things You Didn’t Know about Bouldering Grades | Climbing

I doubt you know all of this about bouldering grades. Really though, when problems get so high in grade, they can only be sent by people who specialize in the particular movements featured in the problem.

10 Things You Didn’t Know about Bouldering Grades | Climbing

Lessons Learned

Today while climbing at the gym I learned a very valuable lesson; When the setters give you bad holds, dyno the bomber sloper! Ok, ok I know that many people are going to jump on me for saying that. Normally you shouldn't skirt the problem, and confront is straight on. But, in competition situations its always good to have some tricks in your bag. Problems don't always have to be solved the way that setters had in mind. Everyone climbs in their own unique style and thus should approach each problem in their own way, armed with their best sending weapon. If you like to dyno, and see a gnar opportunity to do so and bypass half of the problem, just do it! Not going to lie, I'm pretty psyched on this send.

πr2 - V8 #1 from climbing(202) on Vimeo.

A Day at Rocks

"Deer Tick" - V4+

Spent some time at Rocks State Park. The weather was excellent for my first time there. The variety of problems is pretty rad for a spot so close to home. Did a little off the grid trekking trying to locate the Smoke and Ash area, and never quite made it, but will definitely look for it again. Spent some time on segments of the area masterpiece "Moby" that goes at V10. Honestly I think I may need to revisit that problem in another year or two. Overall had a great day of climbing and will be back soon, can't complain with the easy drive and approaches. 

Spent a few days in the Gunks in late April and never got around to posting video footage of what went down. The cool kids at Rock and Snow lent me the now out of print bouldering guide for the area. I definitely suggest dropping by their shop if you head up to the Gunks, very chill people. Camped in camp slime, which is a must for any climber. Such a short approach to pretty much everything. This was my first attempt at any sort of video, so the footage and editing are awful, sorry. Also all of the problems with exception to the Lorax are not in the guide book, and when I asked people about them no one seemed to know about them in particular. So, I gave them tentative names just to be able to talk about them. If anyone knows their true origins let me know!



Gunks Bouldering: Steel Bridge Area from climbing(202) on Vimeo.

I planned on setting out early Saturday morning to do a little top roping with friends out at Sugarloaf, the day however, did not want me to get there so early. After being informed that all my tail lights were mysteriously non-functional by a nice motorist, I then spent the better part of two hours buying new bulbs and replacing all the old ones. Eventually, with everything fixed, I was finally on my way to the stone. A few friends and I headed up, and were welcome to run into a few other gym buddies. Even though the day got off to a late start, the weather was beautiful and we had plenty of climbable light left. Turned out to be a great day all together.

Out with the Old, In with the New

A little sad to be leaving the Shaman, but stoked to welcome the Blackwing into my arsenal.

The snow today even makes it feel like Christmas!

Sweet Citi Bank Spot!

In case you haven't seen this Citi Bank has a new commercial centered around climbing! Do you recognize the male climber? None other than free soloer Alex Hannold!

http://fb.me/18f0ZLxKz

Time for a Vacation!

I finally got around to taking the lead belay test after taking the class several months ago. Without having practiced leading for a while I passed with flying colors! I'm really excited to be able to lead all the new routes EarthTreks will be setting for the opening of the new gym expansion. I must admit my body needs a break. Time for a vacation! Headed to Iceland to check out glaciers, hot springs, waterfalls and the aurora borealis! Let the body heal, and the soul soar. Have a great thanks giving everyone, see you in a week!

I'm Back!

I'm back everyone! Sorry to all my friends and readers for the absence, I have been out for about 2 months due to a surgery that I needed to repair my lower abdominal muscles. I cant express how great it feels to be back! Not only can I climb again, but I can run again, something I haven't done in over a year and a half. I believe that my ability to train both on the road and on the rock, will now make me an over all better climber. I have been in the gym twice now, and I will admit its been a little rough, but things are progressing nicely. Since we are now in the thick of bouldering season, I figured ill give a comp a shot just to get back in to the swing of things. Ill let you all know how that one goes next week!

5.10 is the Magic Number!

Erik and Dana both sent their first 5.10, Savage Heart, yesterday! Im sure they are both mad stoked and deservedly so.

Falls are Fun

We had a great turnout yesterday with Brandon, Sherry, Corey, Erik, and me (Dana).  Corey and Brandon got to try their hand (literally) at mock leading with me as the safety top rope belay.  Brandon climbed a sick 5.11 on the mock lead and I can verify that he did NOT get any help from me with the top rope.  Corey stepped up to be the first to practice a fall, and I've got to say, even with two of us on ropes, it was pretty frightening.  Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on who you ask) Corey didn't end up falling very far and Brandon didn't go flying up in the air.  I'm still waiting to see that one next time.  Meanwhile, Erik worked on building up his stamina with some 5.9s.  With his impressive height, I wouldn't be surprised to see him go for some 5.10s soon.  Sherry spent her Sunday working on her technical skills, traversing and practicing using different hand holds.  And I knocked out a couple 5.7 and 5.8s in the gym (some of the 5.7s, especially the overhung ones, are deceptively hard).  I tried out a 5.9, but I just don't have the foot placement or ability to make dynamic movements enough yet.  I'm personally psyched to be receiving my own pair of shoes in the mail tomorrow (a pair of ClimbX men's for $50).  I think Brandon is slowly but surely breaking in his new shoes.

Can't wait for the next time I'm 50ft up!
~Dana

New Shoes = TORTURE!

Spent the day breaking in new shoes, unfortunately this meant lost of pain. Yes, I know pain is insane. I have been rocking a pair of 5.10 Rogues, which are great and will continue to wear, but wanted a little more power and stick at the toe for tiny foot chips and overhung routes. I picked up the Scarpa Booster and its pretty much awesome. Downsized a full size from my street shoe which gives a really tight fit through the entire shoe, though I will say under the heal is a little baggy and keeps a little air pocket. Hopefully it works out once the shoe forms to my feet. Though incredibly painful at first, after getting sweaty and warm the suede began to mold to my foot. The Booster is mad precise and super sticky thanks to its Vibram sole. Always told myself I would never wear a Vibram, but the rubber is dope on a climbing shoe. So far, definitely recommend this shoe!

Great Sunday Climbing!

This post is all shout outs! First, congrats to the newest EarthTreks member, Sherry! Finally took the leap and signed up for the full membership so we will be seeing her around a lot more. Also she made huge steps in her climbing today powering through several climbs, and after ruminating the route over a ledge for a while, decided to go about it by splitting a chimney! Those ledges wont be a problem for her again.

Congrats to Dana as well after switching from a rental harness to one of her own  rocking tons of climbs with ease. Most notably,she sent a tricky 5.7 with a nasty little ledge. She made huge climb rating jumps today, so insane. I think the weight of the rental harness was holding her back, no stopping her now! Dana, I believe however is more of a fan of the bouldering cave, always ending the day there solving problems. Also, thanks for sticking around in the gym for 5 hours with me!

Josh and Emily, its awesome that you guys took the movement class! I took a peak in and looked like it was going well and you learned a lot. You will have to show us all up climbing blindfolded with one hand now!

Working through the Pain

Shout out to Erik and Corey who climbed today with me (Brandon). Nice job fighting through the little tweaky pain you guys were facing. We got some nice climbs in, rotating pretty quickly through the three of us. Erik killed some sick 5.8s today with ease. Corey, nice muscling through that pitchy 5.9, i'll have to upload the video later.

Eriks dope move over the ledge

And he has only been climbing 3 times!

Sundays are Rough!

Sundays are always tough to pull yourself out of bed and head and head to the gym after the haze of Saturday night. A bunch of us made it out to climb today though, so thanks to Emily, Erik, Dana, Sherry and Stone. Although we were there for about 4 hours I didn't get to much climbing in, but those that I did were of quality. Worked on a 5.11, Gas in the Tank and did some pretty solid bouldering work with Erik and Dana trying to figure out a nasty V4 problem. Put together a video of the 5.11 below. Its my first time doing any video editing so it can only get better.

Climbing!

We are a group of friends living in DC who just got started in the sport of climbing at EarthTreks. This blog was created to follow our progression in the sport, from gear, to classes, from 5.1 - 5.?, from indoors to outdoors, and maybe to competition. Pretty much just taking a look at whatever we do while climbing. The plan pretty much is to post text and video detailing our adventures and any cool people we meet or rad things we get into along the way the way.